Passage 8

Antigua to Bermuda.

HOMEWARD BOUND - a simple statement but oh what feelings it evokes. It is hard to express what this means now after having cruised 12 countries and 20 islands of the North Atlantic and Caribbean. We have travelled some 6,000 nautical miles in that time and seen some wonderful sights. The peoples of these lands have been charming and welcoming and the diversity of experiences simply too much to be summarised here. But now to be returning is a heady feeling burdened with a complexity of feelings. Sad to be leaving, delighted to be going home and a little nervous about what challenges still lie ahead as we move from predictable trade wind conditions into the vagarities of the North Atlantic proper.

We are headed north now on the first leg to Bermuda, a passage of 930 nmiles. We set off with 12 other yachts of the ARC Europe 2007 fleet from Jolly Harbour, Antigua in near perfect conditions - brilliant sun, turquoise water, white beaches and a steady F4 from the E over a gentle swell.

We skipped along for 12 hours or so doing an average of 7 knots with burst of speed to 8.5 knots when the wind gusted a little. We settled down into our first night at sea as it started to get dark about 19:00 local time. The night was kind to us with a low swell, brilliant stars and fading winds that just managed to keep us trundling along at between 4 and 5 knots in light airs. Morning broke to a beautiful rosey fingered dawn and a refreshing rain shower that drenched the decks and made the newly cleaned teak decks steam and glow with a satisfying hue.

The drama of the day yesterday was the triumph of landing a spectacular 4 foot, 40 LB Spanish Mackerel. James set the line with his prize lure that had already caught him a 3 foot Baracuda and a monster 4 foot 65 LB dorado off St Kitts last month. Ian did a heroic job of landing the mackerel and joining with me to clean and fillet it. The flesh is now mostly frozen with some in the fridge ready of lunch today.

We resisted cooking some of the fish for dinner last night as I had already prepared three meals before we left the first of which was nicely defrosted - so we went with that. As it was the first night out I had prepared a simple chicken stew in a sun-dried tomato sauce with fresh herbs. I developed the trick of adding fresh vegetables to the dish on completion ready for freezing. When reheating it the vegetables come out crisp. I also discovered that adding gnoshi at this time gives a hearty meal of taste and substance with very little effort at the stove - perfect for the first night when cooking is not a favoutite pass time.

As I write Andy is gamefully trying to get an extra half knot out of the rig in disappointingly light airs. But no real complaints as there is a tropical storm with 50 knot winds over Florida that is delaying the boats coming from St Augustine to join us in Bermuda for the passage to the Azores. I am sure we will have our fair share of strong winds in the days and weeks to come.

All on board Kittiwake are fine and doing well

Mark
Kittiwake
19.15N 62.15W

Log Kittiwake - 13th May 2007

From the sublime to the downright uncomfortable - that has been the in change conditions over the past 24 hours. We have covered 122 nmiles at an average speed of 5.1 knots. During that time we ran on engine for 16 hours to get us north of the calms and shifting light airs.

Yesterday was a near perfect Caribbean day with scorching heat, brilliant sunshine and oh so gentle zephyrs wafting across azure seas. The swell had abated and had we been on a beach it would have been perfect. As it was we baked and fumed and finally secumbed to the engine. We tried poled-out genoa and staysail and main combinations. We dropped the headsails, gybed and ran out the cruising chute and played it like a kite for hours but all in vain. The wind simply was not enough to fill it and it kept collapsing in a rush and slither of multicoloured nylon, like the draws of Portsmouth whore on a Friday night - or so I'm told!

All afternoon we baked and dozed to the drone of the engine and the gentle slop of the sea. By evening the clouds were closing in and sunset was a grey anticlimax. As we headed into the night it enfolded us in a gentle embrace of warm, moist air and entertained us with a lightening show. Dazzling light and strobe-lit clouds danced around us but rarely did we hear any sound of thunder. As the night drew on the stars went out to the south and the radar showed a large rain bank sweeping up from behind. Sure enough by 02:00 in the morning we were drenched in torrential rain. The wind briefly stirred but offerd little to help as we motorsailed on. By dawn the world had changed. Grey light driving rain and wind - oh blessed wind rushing down from the north. Within minutes we were creaming along at 8 knots. By breakfast we were well reefed down and doing a steady 9 knots and surging up to 10 at times in near gale force conditions. Life was now being conducted at 30 degrees to port and the swells were building to make life very uncomfortable. We have reefed further and Kittiwake is skipping along in hazy sunshine and boistrous seas.

The rain contrary to what one would expect does not wash the decks clean. Rather it muddies and sullies them with the dust it carries leaving one feeling bespoilt and miffed after all the hard labour that went into getting them spotless while in Jolly Harbour.

Last night we ate early so as not to repeat the business of fumbling in the dark for invisible morsels in a bowl. The reason was we wanted to do justice to the splendid Spanish Mackerel Ian and James had caught the other day. I coated large fillets in lightly seasoned oatmeal and pan-fried them in the bacon fat from breakfast till just flaky. These were served on top of linguini tossed in virgin olive oil and cracked black pepper covered in a fresh ratatouille of Antiguan aubergines, sweet peppers and balsamic vinegar in a spicy tomato sauce. The yearing for a cold glass or two of Pinot Grigio was palpable around the cockpit - the only thing that took the edge of a lovely repast.

Kittiwake is serving as the SSB Radio net controller for the ARC-Europe fleet alternating each day with yacht Re Shanta. After completing this duty this morning we are settled down now to the new conditions. Yacht Apparition shared the news that there is a low to the north causing gale force conditions above 27N and the advice from 'Herb' (the voice of the weather for yachtsmen in the North Atlantic) was to slow down and not get above 25N or much beyond before tomorrow evening. So we are now heading north under deep reefed plain sail still making 6.5 knots and biding our time. Ironic for those yachts who had successfully escaped the calms earlier and for us who had motored for so long. We learn and move on.

All on board well and doing fine.

Mark
Kittiwake 23.54N 63.08W

Log Kittiwake 14.05.07

Monday morning and having a good day not in the office. No early morning commute, no urgent in-tray, no deadlines, no meetings and no commute back to endure. Instead we have been tossed about in a small plastic boat in a dark world of heaving swells, torrential rain, lightening displays, constant wind shifts, gust up to 30 knots, three sail plan changes, an over heating generator and virtually no sleep - conditions perfect!

The weather forecasters are having a hard job giving precise information behind the fronts and depressions ahead of us. Although the general picture is clear the local conditions are highly changeable. We have pushed on well doing 146nmiles in the past 24 hours at an average speed of 6.2knots. We caught glimpses of other yachts in the night as the squalls and rain showers cleared and were in VHF and SSB contact with many of the fleet. All experiencing the same vagarities, those ahead slowing down and the fleet closing up somewhat. We are all still a little anxious about what lies ahead although things should improve for the final run into Bermuda Wednesday night /Thursday morning with a new high building there.

Kittiwake is slow in light airs but goes like a train when the wind gets above 17 knots and we will have to be careful not to run too fast into the weather ahead. This morning we have a little bit of sun coming through broken cloud and the rain has cleared for the moment. The generator problem seems to have been a temporary clitch. I suspect a sticky cooling fan, which did not come on last night. All seems OK now but we are keeping a close eye on it.

Last night for supper we had the last of the pre-prepared meals I made in Jolly Harbour - rich beef Spanish ragout with chorizo sausage, sweet smoked paprika and fresh vegateables. This warmed us up nicely for what was a cool evening. We have definitely left the Caribbean behind us now that we are on a latitude above the tip of Florida.

All on board fine and doing well.

Mark
Kittiwake
26.01N 63.19W
388nmiles south of Bermuda

Log Kittiwake 15.05.07

I am sitting at a 30 degree angle wedged in the navigation table chair clinging desperately to the laptop to stop it skittering across the saloon.

We are pounding north west in a north,north easterly wind of some 25 knots. The seas, in sailor's parlance, are 'moderate' at between 7-12 feet, with the occasional big one. Put another way by any sane individual - big and seriously uncomfortable!

The day is sunny and fresh - a sparkling wonderland of dashing spray, vast expanses of rolling waves and rushing clouds. Kittiwake is alive, leaping forward to meet the on-rushing succession of rollers coming from the north, north west. She rides up each in turn, cleaving their tops in fountains of spray that blow off to leeward like a shoal of startled flying fish. Now and again she rides up high over a larger than usual one and slams down hard on the otherside in a way that sets the whole boat ringing for a few seconds afterwards.

We are all exhilarated by the sensations, but also tired after another long night of being tossed to and fro. The air temperature is cool and we are all wrapped up well when on deck. The T shirts have been replaced by foul weather jackets.

We slowed down last night and headed west to get behind the depression moving off to the north east. As the winds veered we have followed them round on a close haul. We are expecting the winds to continue to veer to the ENE and then east through the day to give us a better angle to make Bermuda.

In the meantime is it 'hang on in there' time. This trip is proving to be a very good shake down for the challenges ahead. One casualty of the weather was our evening meal - just a very basic pasta, tuna and sweetcorn mudge shoved down in short order to get some slow release calories into us. Actually quite tasty but not up to our usual standards.

Although the seas are largely empty each night and day we have seen freighters come by. Two nights ago in torrential rain one loomed out of of a squall only two miles ahead and crossed our bows. She was hidden in the mass of the rain on the radar. All this emphasises again - as if we didn't know it - to be very vigilant at all times even when tired, cold and soaked. In fact especially then when the temptation is to huddle under the spray hood. It takes constant effort and will power to stay up to scan the horizon and mind the set of the sails. Don't think this is a joy ride anymore - this is a seriously, demanding business. It is quite unlike the ARC 'milk run' in trade winds where, by and large' conditions were predictable and fairly constant. Here we are making lots of sail changes and constantly adjusting the course to suit the local conditions, gleaning weather from a variety of sources and sharing tips and thoughts around the fleet by VHF and SSB radio. This true blue water, ocean sailing.

So we press on with 298nmiles to go to Bermuda to the north.

All on board well and doing fine.

Mark
Kittiwake
27.25N 64.33W

Kittiwake Log - 16 May 2007

Joy of joys - a beautiful spring like day of cool breezes warmed by an awakening sun over a deep azure settling sea. As anticipated the winds veered to the north and then north east during the night. We followed the shift round and are now on track to Bermuda just 150 nmiles to the north bouncing along at 6-7knots on a close-hauled starboard tack.

The fatigue of the previous day has been ameliorated by a good night's sleep and spirits are soaring with an ETA at St George's of tomorrow lunchtime.

We have the ocean to ourselves - a vast wilderness of quilted wave forms beneath a hazy blue sky. We have seen no other ARC yacht or any other vessel for 36 hours now but we know that the pacs setters Brigand, a large catamaran, and Cochise, a Swan 46, have already arrived. All ARC boats are now expecting to get in tomorrow ahead of a gathering gale due over Bermuda this weekend.

It never ceases to amaze and fascinate me how quickly conditions can change and how we adapt. To the south the airs were light, the sun too hot and the seas impossibly coloured. The gentle swells formed a soft quilt pattern that gathered softly around us like a favoutite comforter.

A few days later this same substance has turned nasty and transformed into an angry and spiteful entity hell bent on making life uncomfortable. Cold, capricious, insolent in its casual disregard for where it goes (over the deck, down the companion way steps, down necks, into sandwiches) and what it does (bashing us about, tossing us around and slapping over us). At first this is resented and everything becomes twice nay thrice as difficult. We crab about the decks and cabins holding on and judging the time to move to the next handhold. We remarked that we looked like octagenarians in our painfully slow, deliberated movements. Just getting out of a chair or to the loo becomes a major exercise requiring a silly amount of effort. Tiredness comes over quickly and nobody feels like eating yet sleep is impossible and food is just what we need to keep stomachs calm and blood sugars up. After 24 hours of this a routine re-establishes itself, sleep is granted because you are just too knackered to resist and food is endured if not enjoyed. As this goes on the mind and body accept the new norm and get on with life again. Movements become better coordinated and thinking clearer. It was just the same when we came over with the ARC. It is good to know that we can come through the 'oh my god why are we doing this to ourselves' barrier and begin to enjoy the challenge again with some resolve.

As I write the happy chatter and banter in the cockpit is palpable.

James has just been soaked for the second time by a rogue wave that came up and sploshed on him and the others are swapping jovial insults in the way that only a happy crew can do.

This is proving to be a very good shake down cruise for the final two legs that are likely to be tough and will be longer. We will fix a few minor things in Bermuda. These include a new gooseneck fitting for one of the spinnaker poles, better lashings for the rib in the davits and very importantly a way of sealing he stern lazarette hatch covers.

Yesterday at the height of the winds I was dismayed to find sea water sloshing all over the new carpet I had had laid in the aft cabin. A long search for the source showed it to be spray working its way down under the hatches and into pockets around the ribbing in the rudder well. This was seeping forward through the bulkheads to dribble out on to the floor. Worrying at the time and messy but easy to fix now I know what is going on. The generator also cut out but I'm now sure this was because of slightly over heating main engine battery. The batteries were all checked an topped up before we left but this one is prone to drying faster than the service batteries. Overall though in all important respects Kittiwake has acquitted herself very well and the new Doyle's 120% genoa has been a great boost as we beat northward.

Surprising: How many birds we have seen out here in the middle of nowhere. I think that they are just as surprised to see us as they circle our boat and we call to them.

Disturbing: The plastic that we continue to see floating by our boat.

All on board well and doing fine.

Mark
Kittiwake
145 nmiles due south of Bermuda
29.57N 64.38W

Kittiwake alongside in St George's Yacht Club 19 May 2007

We are now safely tied up in St George's Yacht and Dinghy Club in St George's Harbour, Bermuda and have been since Thursday. Sorry for the break in daily logs but the arrival was very exciting and fraught.

Yesterday was so busy with putting things in order and organising some specialist help before the weekend there was not a spare moment till now. As I write it is pouring with rain and blowing a near gale as a low front moves over us. We are very glad that we are tied up safely and not at sea right now.

The final approach on Bermuda was exactly as planned coming out of the south with the dawn to the east. Ian spotted land first low down on the port bow - just the faintest line of white that gradually resolved into a low lying island group bespotted with pale houses. The morning developed into a dazzling day of brilliant sun set in a deep blue sky and matching sea topped with frothing white crests. As directed, we contacted Bermuda Harbour Control Radio five miles out and they instructed us to close the Sea Buoy to the east and stand off rather than run closer in to the Spit Buoy. The reason, a huge cruise ship was leaving the Town Cut - the narrowest of channels. We could see its massive, white topsides gliding above the trees and houses of St David's Head. To seaward we could see the 'Bremen', another cruise ship, bearing down fast pressing for its entry.

As the preposterous martime housing estate passed by I radioed for permission to nip into its wake and run in before the Bremen had taken on her pilot. This was granted so long as we could make the entry in 15 minutes.

We ran under engine and full sail to the Spit Buoy and adroitly dropped sail and committed to the channel. Just in time as the Bremen was now racing us for first place with no passing places short of the inland lagoon that is St George's Harbour. With barely a cable between us now and the Bremen's foaming white bows looming over us we burst out of the channel and nipped left into the first little inlet of the lagoon. We were left shuddering from the massive blast of the Bremen's ships horn as she proclaiming her arrival. She thundered past within spitting distance not slowing till she slewed around by the Town key half a mile up.

This had all been watched by Bermuda Harbour Control Radio who had had us under radar and visual sight throughout. They thanked us for our reading of the situation and cooperation twice that morning. I proclaimed that it was a little exciting to which the controller said - 'yes it gets like this here sometimes'. His welcome was fulsome.

We spotted the marina on our starboard side as we regained the channel as we headed for the Customs Dock where we were to moor up to complete arrival formalities. Now the fun really began. The wind, as you may have gathered, had been growing in strength all morning and was now blowing 20knots gusting 25 out of the south east. Being in the lagoon the water was flat but the wind unabated.

The Customs Dock is situated on Ordinance Island on the landward north side next to the Town. It is in a tight little dead end rined by a broken concrete sea wall and shared with an inter-island ferry and several water taxis. It is also close by the yacht anchorage. To approach you have to pass thorugh the anchorage and swing round in a tight circle to port to come up into the wind to dock. Well that was Plan A.

We were given permission to go alongside the key by Harbour Control and committed Kittiwake. Just as were doing so two other yachts, who it transpired had also been given permission, decided to do the same. We did a double take, dodged the traffic and spun away to try to make sense of what was happening. An apologetic Harbour Control acknowledged the situation and asked us to let the other two go first and then to sort it out amongst ourselves. We didn't know it at the time but this was proving to be the busiest day for yacht and cruise ship movements for months and they were a bit overwhelmed.

To cut a long, fraught story short after several attempts we eventually rafted-up against a large catamarran - only to have to wait for an hour while Customs were at lunch. Other arriving ARC yachts had to circle around for the best part of three hours before their turn finally came.

With no berth yet available at the St George's Yacht Club marina we dropped anchor. This proved to be a very short wait. Minutes later were made a carefully judged approach with a strong cross-wind blowing to side-step alongside a concrete jetty with our bows just feet away the rocky shallows. We had finally completed our 931nmiles from Antigua to Bermuda.

We had done more boat handling under very difficult conditions in the three hours after arrival than we had done in the past three months. Kittiwake is a fairly big yacht with lots of windage and davits sticking out the back. It is not easy turning her in close confines and I was very glad to be tied-up at last. We broke out the beer saved for the moment and savoured it on the dock before setting about the business of cleaning ship and making good some minor problems.

That evening Ian and Andy treated us all to a wondeful meal in the town of St George's and we retired to our berths late, very fatigued but happy.

We have seen little of Bermuda yet save for the local town. This immediately appeals having as it does a familiar but unique feel to it. It is rather like parts of the west country or Wales or the Isle of Man but with semi tropical flowers, low lying coloured-washed houses, English road signs and post boxes. The locals are very welcoming and cannot be more helpful. There is no doubt that we have left the Caribbean although there is a lingering feeling of influence sharing as it does so much heritage and island culture.

Friday was a day of getting things moving again - rigging check and tune organised. Repairs set in place to the davit strop that parted three days out dunking the rib into the water. We had to jury rig some lashing till we got in. We ordered some spare parts for the spinnaker pole that had troubled us. These should be with us Monday. Ian and James did a super job of rewiring the anchor winch and Andy did an inventory of the cordage and blocks we will need for the next phase.

The most frustrating incident was the loss of the Hydrovane self-steering rudder blade. This system is an alternative to the electronic autopilot. I was removing it from its fixing prior to backing off the Customs dock on the morning of our arrival. It was just one less complication to worry about. It is held by a pin and also tied on for extra security. I pulled the pin and to my dismay the rudder slipped down into the deep. The knot had come loose. I had not noticed it as it was still in place but not secure. The rudder will be impossible to replace before the Azores and spoilt an otherewise happy arrival.

Last night I cooked the last of the Spanish Mackerel done Chinese style steamed in soy sauce, ginger and shaved onion (no spring ones to hand). We had it with rice, a noodle stir fry and a couple of bottles of Pinot Grigio. Replete and exhaused we had an early night as the gale blew impotently over us washing the salt off the decks and rocking us to sleep.

We have a rum tasting and BBQ this evening at the Club House to look forward to and a day of sightseeing tomorrow.

All on board fine and enjoying the break in our travels.

Mark
Kittiwake
St George's Harbour
Bermuda